History lesson, fam! On the 1st of March 1965, NASA declared the OMEGA Speedmaster to be “Flight Qualified for all Manned Space Missions.” This pivotal day was the official beginning of OMEGA’s extraordinary journey beyond Earth, which has since included every Moon landing in history and many of the greatest missions of our time.
The NASA qualification is synonymous with OMEGA’s pioneering spirit and excellence in design. 60 years after the approval was announced, the brand is looking back to that hopeful era of human adventure, and celebrating the moment that its watches became part of the story.
What Happened Next?
Just three weeks after the qualification was granted, on the 23rd of March, 1965, the Speedmaster ST 105.003 officially went into space for the first time on the wrists of Virgil “Gus” Grissom and John Young during their Gemini 3 mission. The only modification to the watches was the addition of a long Velcro strap that could be worn over the space suits.
Beyond Gemini 3, the Speedmaster and its various updates became an invaluable tool for the crews aboard each of NASA’s manned missions. Famously, it was worn by Ed White during the first American spacewalk in 1965 and also the crew of Apollo 8, who saw the “far side of the Moon” for the first time in 1968.
As the Speedmaster continued to serve the astronauts in space, NASA got closer and closer to its major goal. Finally, on the 20th of July 1969, Apollo 11 touched down on the moon for the first time in history, fulfilling John F. Kennedy’s promise.
Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin spent two and a half hours walking on the lunar surface, and in that moment, the OMEGA Speedmaster became the first watch worn on the Moon. It has returned for every Moon landing since then and long remained a critical part of NASA’s astronaut kit.
Size
Size Qualified by NASA in 1965, this model represents the Speedmaster’s 3rd generation design and is sized at 39.70 mm.
Inspired by the 3rd generation Speedmaster that NASA qualified in 1965, OMEGA launched this 39.70 mm choice in 2020 for modern customers – almost perfectly replicating the original style.
Perhaps the most iconic chronograph on Earth, today’s Speedmaster Moonwatch is 42 mm, and is inspired by the 4th generation style that Apollo 11 astronauts wore on the Moon. This latest Co-Axial Master Chronometer version was launched in 2021.
Caseback
This early Speedmaster watch featured a double bevel caseback with “Speedmaster” engraved and OMEGA’s famous Seahorse emblem.
To let customers admire the sophisticated mechanics of the Calibre 321, OMEGA gave this model a transparent sapphire crystal caseback.
The caseback of the Moonwatch includes the famous words; “FLIGHT-QUALIFIED BY NASA FOR ALL MANNED SPACE MISSIONS”, as well as “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON”. The Seahorse emblem still retains its place at the centre. Since 2021, with the introduction of the Calibre 3861, the text “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” has also been added, highlighting the movement inside.
Bracelet
The Speedmaster 105.003 was delivered on several linked bracelet references, while also being presented on Velcro straps when astronauts wore it over their spacesuits. The style seen in this image features 3 flat links per row and a protruding OMEGA vintage logo on the clasp to help with opening.
A modern version of the bracelet with 3 flat links has been used for the Speedmaster Calibre 321. A foldover clasp fastens it to the wrist.
Today’s Moonwatch bracelets are presented with five arched links per row, with a foldover clasp and an additional comfort setting.
Dial
While the black dial featured an applied OMEGA logo in the vintage style, it also included tritium markers for luminosity. Note especially that this was the last Speedmaster reference that did not include the addition of the word, “Professional”.
This black step dial remains as true to the original as possible, with similar features including the vintage OMEGA logo and the same Speedmaster font. Naturally, to give it a necessary update, the markers are coated in modern Super-LumiNova instead of tritium.
The black step dial of the Moonwatch features a transferred logo with the addition, since 1964, of the word “Professional”. From 1997, the models were upgraded with Luminova detailing for better visibility. The logo and Speedmaster font are also in keeping with today’s modern style.
Tachymeter Bezel
It wouldn’t be a Speedmaster without a tachymeter scale on the bezel. For dedicated fans, two small but recognisable details of the ST 105.003 are the placement of the dot over 90, and the dot diagonal to 70.
Naturally, the important placement of the dots hasn’t been changed for the Speedmaster Calibre 321. What’s new, however, are the materials used. Instead of the original aluminium bezel ring, OMEGA has created a bezel ring in polished black ceramic with the tachymeter scale in white enamel.
The Speedmaster Moonwatch features an anodised aluminium bezel ring in black, a feature that has been part of the design since the Speedmaster’s 2nd generation. Almost everything else is exactly as it was in 1964. A perfect tool for measuring speed over a known distance. Although the positioning of the 90 and 70 dots on the bezel were changed over the years, they have now been returned to their original placement as a tribute to heritage.
Pushers
The pushers on the NASA tested watch were considered medium size and very easy to use with thick astronaut gloves. Notably, they are without the protection of the asymmetrical case that modern versions offer.
The very same pushers still remain – proving that some designs are too perfect to change.
The most interesting feature of the Moonwatch pushers today is the protection they are given by the asymmetrical case.
Case Shape
The shape of the NASA-tested watch is most notable for its symmetrical shape with straight lugs. This was the last Speedmaster that came without crown guards. From this generation onwards, it became known as the Moonwatch after its historic lunar landing.
The straight lugs and symmetrical case are the same as the original NASA tested watch. Just like that model, today’s tribute also includes the same brushed sides and polished upper surfaces.
The Moonwatch case is inspired by the 4th generation Speedmaster. It features twisted lugs, as well as an asymmetrical shape that provides protection for the crown and pushers.
Calibre
The iconic Calibre 321 was robust and elegant, and contained an intricate and technically valuable column-wheel feature. For collectors, it has become one of the world’s most essential pieces of watchmaking art.
The original Calibre 321 was used by OMEGA until 1969. Then, in 2019, it made a triumphant return – after two years of relentless research and development. To reconstruct the movement as accurately as possible, OMEGA employed an entire group of researchers, developers and historians, as well as the finest craftsmen and experienced watchmakers. Going even further, they also used “tomography” technology (a digital scanning method) to see inside the true Speedmaster ST 105.003 timepiece that astronaut Eugene “Gene” Cernan wore on the Moon during Apollo 17.
The Calibre 3861 is the most up-to-date descendant of the Calibre 321. Compared to previous versions, it offers improved power reserve, chronometric performance and magnetic resistance. Many innovative features include OMEGA’s revolutionary Co-Axial escapement as well as the silicon Si14 balance spring. These advancements enable the watch to pass the eight Master Chronometer tests.
- The Speedmaster Difference
- Accuracy, reliability, readability and ease of operation were the reasons given by astronauts, when asked about their preference for their Speedmaster. Indeed, the timepieces offered numerous qualities that many other watches could not.
- Robust Design
- When the original Speedmaster was created in 1957, it included many protective technologies used by OMEGA at the time, such the sealing powers of O-ring gaskets, and the famous “Naiad” crown. Through this, OMEGA was able to create an incredibly rugged chronograph that was hermetically sealed against the elements and whose sealing powers extended to a depth of 200 feet. Furthermore, the hesalite glass offered the advantage of flexibility, and therefore shatter-resistance, in high impact situations. The last thing an astronaut wants during a mission is tiny fragments of glass floating in the spacecraft.
- Pioneering Spirit
- The Speedmaster was a design pioneer. When released in 1957, it became the first watch to feature a tachymeter scale on its bezel, as opposed to the dial. This made it ideal for its intended customer – racing car drivers out on the track. Ever since then, the iconic timing scale has remained an essential and distinguishing element of the Speedmaster design.
- Readability
- The original Speedmaster from 1957 was engineered for racing car drivers. Therefore, the design was given an easily readable face, so that timing could be noted at a glance. Not only did this theme continue in the ST 105.003, but there was also luminosity on the baton hands and hours markers, provided by the use of tritium. For the darkest reaches of space, this distinctive readability was a critical factor.
- Accuracy
- By 1965, OMEGA had a superb reputation for precision, and especially for chronograph design. Thebrand’s first chronograph calibre with 30-minute and 12-hour counters was the 27 CHRO C12. First designed and produced in 1941, it was a movement distinguished by its use of a column wheel, a feature that was machined from a single piece and which added technical value. This led to the birth of the Calibre 321, given its name in 1949. Using the same column wheel system, it encapsulated OMEGA’s commitment to accuracy, and its expertise in ultra-fine mechanics
