It’s the timepiece holy grail, fam! Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet has unveiled a new ceramic shade inspired by the iconic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” colour developed in 1972 to adorn the dial of the first Royal Oak (Model 5402).
Drawing its distinctive radiance from the night sky of the Vallée de Joux – a source of creativity for generations of watchmakers – this deep blue hue now graces ceramic to dress three models from the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collections. Developed over several years, this material achieves the challenge of maintaining a uniform colour throughout all watch components. These three timepieces showcase the Manufacture’s relentless quest for innovation in terms of design and materials, in tribute to the region of Le Brassus where Audemars Piguet was founded 150 years ago.
The Sky As Inspiration
The measurement of time finds its origins in the astronomical observations that have consistently guided watchmakers in their quest for precision. Gazing at the sky, they have examined the movements of stars and the Moon for centuries, seeking to reflect them in their creations.
Known for its clarity, the Vallée de Joux’s night sky has inspired generations of watchmakers since the 18th century, fostering the development of some of the world’s most prestigious complications.
Beyond the movement of celestial bodies, the shade of the region’s clear night sky has also nurtured the imagination and creativity of Audemars Piguet artisans. It was this deep blue hue that inspired Gérald Genta to replicate it for the dial of the first Royal Oak in 1972 (Model 5402).
At the time, the Geneva-based dial maker Stern developed the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” colour by adding black pigment n°50 to the protective varnish (called Zapon). The “cloud” effect is said to come from the chemical reaction produced by the small amount of black colour poured into the liquid lacquer.
Recreating this blue colour is a complex process, as the shade varies depending on the duration and temperature of the galvanic bath. Today, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dials are obtained using a PVD (Physical Vapour Desposition) process to ensure a homogenous colour.
Whether due to its complexity or the enthusiasm surrounding the first Royal Oak model, the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” hue has since become as iconic as the timepiece itself.
“The sky of the Vallée de Joux has played a key role in the history of Audemars Piguet, inspiring the colour ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’, which is now one of the brand’s signature elements.
“The launch of this new ceramic is a tribute to both the region and its talents, and to our relentless quest for innovation.” — Ilaria Resta, Chief Executive Officer, Audemars Piguet
Ancestral Know-How Meets Cutting Edge Tech
The “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic joins the black, electric blue, green and brown hues already available in the collections, furthering the Manufacture’s enduring tradition of innovation in terms of materials and design.
Lightweight and resistant to scratches yet challenging to machine due to its extreme hardness, ceramic has been part of the brand’s offering since 1986.
However, this material is among the oldest of humanity, dating back to the Neolithic period when it was used as potteries for practical purposes. Since then, it has undergone a spectacular evolution, allowing the creation of art and decoration, and becoming more durable and resistant with time. Taking various forms across cultures, ceramic became porcelain in China, earthenware in Italy or France, and glazed in Islamic traditions.
The Industrial Revolution propelled ceramic into a new era of innovation, enabling serial production. Ongoing research into this material eventually leads to the development of ceramics with groundbreaking properties, inaugurating new applications each day, and subsequently introducing it into fields as diverse as construction, aeronautics, electronics, medicine, telecommunications, robotics… and watchmaking.
Applying the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade to ceramic required several years of development to guarantee a homogenous hue throughout the watch and to ensure that it could be reproduced. Each watch component undergoes numerous production stages including machining, sintering and finishing.
This final step is carried out by hand with the extreme care and dexterity of Audemars Piguet artisans, who grant ceramic components the same high-end level of finishing as precious metals, despite their hard and breakable nature.
The depth of colour is further embellished by the alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces that create plays of light and highlight the multifaceted architecture of the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore cases. Combining high-tech machining with traditional handfinishing, this unique material brings together a wide range of modern watchmaking skills.
“Developments and innovations in the field of ceramic are at the heart of Audemars Piguet’s projects, as the company continues to push the limits of its expertise in terms of colour – especially by dressing all watch components in the iconic ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ hue.” —- Thibaut Le Loarer, Head of Research, Audemars Piguet
3 Models In ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’
The 41 mm Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked model is entirely crafted in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic. This monochromatic aesthetic gives centre stage to the rhodium-toned openworked movement placed at dial level below the sapphire crystal, creating a striking visual contrast enhanced by pink gold details such as the hands and hour-markers. Powered by selfwinding Calibre 3132, this timepiece features the double balance wheel mechanism patented by AP in 2016, which provides the watch with enhanced precision and stability.
By incorporating two balance wheels and two hairsprings assembled on the same axis, the system oscillates in perfect synchrony. Visible from both the dial and the caseback, the mechanism offers a privileged view of the watch’s beating heart, while the openworked bridges reveal some components of the gear train. Blending modern technologies, such as CNC (computer numerical control) machining, and manual craftsmanship including polished V-angles, this timepiece epitomises Audemars Piguet’s uncompromising spirit.
The 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph presents a more sportive monochromatic aesthetic. Its ceramic components echo the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” hue of the inner bezel, Méga Tapisserie dial, and chronograph counters. The homogenous aesthetic is subtly contrasted by the eight hexagonal screws in stainless steel punctuating the bezel, as well as the titanium crown chip and caseback. Complementing these elements, the luminescent 18-carat white gold hands and hour-markers enhance readability. Just like the AP monogram, they stand out from the motif of dial, while the chronograph indications, tachymeter scale, and date indication appear in white on a blue background. The chronograph counters retain the collection’s emblematic vertical alignment, displaying the hours at 12 o’clock, minutes at 9 o’clock and small seconds at 6 o’clock.
With this model, the collection also welcomes a brand-new ceramic bracelet, whose pins connecting the studs to the links are now seamlessly integrated for an elegant rendering. The watch beats to the rhythm of Calibre 4404, an integrated selfwinding chronograph with a column wheel and flyback function that allows it to restart instantly without having to stop or reset it first. In addition to revealing the movement’s refined decorations and the dedicated pink gold oscillating weight, the sapphire caseback offers a unique view of the column wheel’s inner workings, bringing together aesthetic refinement and watchmaking excellence.
Finally, the 43 mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph boasts a two-toned design, combining stainless steel with “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic on the bezel, push-pieces and crown, for a powerful colour contrast that extends to the dial. With its “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Méga Tapisserie pattern accentuating the timepiece’s robust silhouette, it serves as a perfect backdrop for the 18-carat hands and hour-markers filled with luminescent material. The chronograph indications and tachymeter scale are printed in white to offer optimum readability.
Powered by Calibre 4401, the timepiece features a minute counter at 9 o’clock, an hour counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock, all of which are rendered in a lighter blue hue enhancing readability and contrast, while the white gold AP monogram is displayed at 12 o’clock. The caseback’s sapphire crystal reveals the flyback chronograph movement’s refined decorations along with the rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight. Mounted on a textured calfskin leather strap matching the ceramic’s hue, this model is equipped with the interchangeability system and comes with an additional blue rubber strap emphasising the collection’s sportive identity.
With the introduction of the new “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic, Audemars Piguet creates a new link between past and future, paying tribute to the talents that have shaped its history and to the Vallée de Joux where the company has been established for 150 years.
Drop by Audemars Piguet’s official website for more details.
